Austria

July 14, Thursday--

I was so anxious and ready to be home but knew we had a very long trip ahead. We left the Mariahilf Hotel in Vienna for a short ride on the underground to the train to the airport for the first of our three-leg flight home. My mom, nephew and I were heading back to California while my brother and sister-in-law were staying on for another 2 1/2 weeks in Austria and Greece. Too bad for them (ha), I so wanted to see my kids and garden and friends and home ; ) I thought our luggage would be going with us…silly me!

The agent in Vienna seemed a bit confused by our itinerary. It was a bit strange that we would be flying to SFO via Toronto and Vancouver. But our luggage was tagged appropriately and we assumed that we would see it when we arrived in Toronto as we had told that we should retrieve it there, go through customs and then put it back on our next plane. Well, you guessed it. We did not see our bags in Toronto and after several conflicting stories and directions we were assured that it was all going straight on to SFO. The agenst in Vancouver assured us that we had been woefully misinformed. But they were helpful in telling us that our luggage was nowhere to be found in the tracking system! Of course, we have but a few minutes to get to our next flight after this delay and I'm not sure what to say about our US Customs staff in Vancouver except that they were a prime example of what we call 'our tax dollars at work.' Twelve agents in the office and literally no one else but the three of us and the one person helping us was slowly photocopying multiples of all of our documents while other stood around joking and laughing. I mentioned that we had a plane to catch and could someone else help her with the paperwork to which one of our public employees replied in a sarcastic tone-of-voice, "It's not like were not working here, we have other things to do." Nice.

We did catch our plane as it was--as were all of our flights--delayed. And I'll mention here that I do not recommend flying Air Canada. They charge you for everything except water and soda. Yes, even a blanket will cost you. And do not expect a bag of pretzels for less that $3.00.

I don't know why but I really expected to find that our bags had, in fact, made a direct flight to SFO and would be waiting for us there. It is now close to 48 hours since we left them in Vienna and they are yet to even show up in the tracking system. It's not that there is anything of huge value in my bag but it does have the things I bought in Austria that you can only get in Austria. And though my wardrobe is relatively simple I estimate that there are several hundred dollars worth of clothing and some of my favorite things that are off somewhere without me. Not to mention about $200 worth of brand new GAP body 'underthings' that I really love.

So, I'm at a bit of a loss today without post-vacation laundry to do and trinkets to hand out. At this writing it is 8:00pm in San Jose and I am disoriented. I think I'm hungry but not sure what to eat, tired but wanting to wait a bit longer to go to bed and have just learned that my vacation will extend one more day on Monday as I've been cancelled at work. Oh, darn : )

Whew, but what a great ride it was!

July 13, Wednesday--

I'm writing this from home on Friday, July 15. More about our actual trip later--it was a long one! But first, about our last day in Vienna…we made the most of it.

After a very warm night as there was no AC in our hotel, we got up to the usual breakfast of cheeses, meats, breads, coffee and juice we headed to Stephansplatz and the Stephansdom which is the magnificent church at the center of the plaza. The highlight of this cathedral is its amazing tile roof. We rode up a circle elevator to view both the roof and the city of Vienna.

roof of Stephensdome

Stephensdome

view from Stephensdome

The Austrian National library and museums were also in the vicinity but time limited us to just admiring the buildings from the outside. We had a bite to eat at a cafe outside the arboretum and then rode the trolley that circles City Center with stop to see Hunterwasserhaus. Designed after the idea and concept of artist Friedesnreich Hunterwasser with architect Joseph Krawina as a co-author the artist believed in architecture in harmony with nature and man. This landmark expressionist apartment building and associated 'village' is a huge tourist attraction and was a highlight of my visit to Vienna. I love modern and public art that is also functional!

fountain at Hunterwasser Haus

Hunterwasser Haus

With just a few hours left in the day we all went our seperate ways for a little shopping. I like to bring home something that is a product of the country or area I am visiting but this is often not easy. In Austria I found mostly candy, cookies and…Schnappes! I bought a little of the former but decided that liquid and glass are not the easiest to transport home. We had one last meal at a "HoofBrau" (not sure why the two o's) and back to the hotel to repack for an early underground and train ride to the airport. Austria was beautiful, quaint, historical, warm and interesting but I was ready to go home.

July 13, Wednesday, Vienna--

I have one final day to blog and we made the most of our last day here. But, I am exhausted, hot and 'glistening' as-it-were. I knew it would be warm here but did I mention that I had no idea it would be so humid? 65%! And despite my packing light I still had way too many clothes. I'm learning more each time I travel I do not know when that will be again--at least for any extended travel.

I am going to write about today on the plane trip home. I will help fill the time on the 13 hour flight--with three 'legs'--Vienna to Toronto to Vancouver to San Francisco.

I am so anxious to be home, see my children and my garden, go for a long bike ride and a good hike with friends.

For now Auf Wiedersehen Austria...

July 12, Tuesday--

I've been in a few taxi's but never one so nice at the late-model Audi we rode in from the Star Inn Hotel to the train station in Salzburg. And with a female drive at that. We were headed to Linz, a one hour trip, to meet back up with Manuela and her parents and niece for a short drive to Mauthausen--a Nazi work/death camp.

What does one say about a Nazi death camp where 100,000 people died either by execution, starvation, disease or extreme fatigue? People--almost all men--from 30 different nations and many religions, straight, gay, young and old. Taken to this camp to work the granite mines until they could work no more and be replaced by the next ‘shipment.’ This historic site is both intersting and sobering. It is not displayed in such a way as to horrify but the audio-tour gives alarming details about daily life in the camp including some of the writings of men imprisoned there.

I was very struck by the fact that this ‘camp’ sits in the midst of beautiful, idyllic farm country.

barracks, roll-call, kitchen, showers, exterminator, incinerator--Mauthausen

the countryside just outside Mauthausen Nazi camp

I suspect that most of the farmhouses that can be seen from the site were there during the war and I wondered what the people surrounding it must have thought. Were they Nazi sympathizers in order to save themselves and their farms? Did they have any idea what was going on inside the 15 foot high stone walls? I also found myself wondering what is going on in the world today that we sit back and allow and might one day say how egregious it was? Austria is full of centuries of history and Mauthausen is something that should never be forgotten by any of us.

Memorial at Mauthausen

individual, personal memorials, Mauthausen

After our 2 1/2 hour visit we headed back to Linz for lunch and final goodbyes to the Kampers. Back on the train and yet another gorgeous, 1 1/2 hour trip to Vienna. Have I mentioned how much I love to travel by train? From the station we took the underground to our hotel and went out for the evening including a ride to the top of ‘Der Donauturm’--The Danube Tower--for 360 degree sunset views of the city. I’m good as long as I don’t look straight down!

view from 'Der Donauturm'--The Danube Tower

Still light at 9:30pm, we rode the underground back to Swedenplatz for some ‘Crazy Noodles’ which seem to be a very popular fast food here...something like chow mein and very good. Another short ride back to the hotel and really starting to feel tired. One more day in Vienna before we head home.

And by the way, in case you were wondering, there are signs everywhere to remind you that 'there are no kangaroos in Austria.' : )

July 11 (I think!), Monday:
Dare I even mention this but I think I might know where Disney got some of his ideas. The historic area of Salzburg is, to say the least, charming…and full of tourists! There are many points of interest here within a very small area, including the homes where Mozart was born and lived.

Mozarts birthplace

One thing I am always looking for is a spectacular view and those from Hohensalzburg--which literally means 'High Salzburg Fortress"-- are amazing.

beautiful Salzburg and the Salz river

Hohensalzburg

After our tour of the castle we rode back down the funicular and went to one of four churchs within an area about the size of a large city block. Curious as to why so many in such proximity. We were really fortunate to be there just as a young children's choir was singing.

children's choir

cemetry at St. Peter's, Salzburg

From there we walked over to Mozart's 'Geburtshaus'--the house of his birth--which was essentially a four-room, third-floor apartment. Though Mozart was one of seven children only he and one sister survived past birth or infancy. Common in those days but still must have been heartbreaking beyond imagination to have had so many children die. My children will be interested to learn that Mozart's sister Maria Anna "Nannerl" after having been widowed for 18 years, married a man by the name of Georg Nicklaus von Nissen! I'm not sure when their father's family dropped the 'von.'

Eating out gets old very quickly so we opted to visit the market for some fruit and sandwiches and had a picnic along the river. We finished the afternoon with a visit to Mozart's second home which was larger and displays some of his instruments, sheet music and other memorabelia. Then a short walk to Schloss Mirabella--she was the Arhcibishop's mistress that I mentioned. He built her quite a nice little place!

Schloss Mirabella

A little gift shopping and then back to the hotel. Whew!

I'm getting 'citied' out and really longing for some open space and home. And gratitude tonight that it is the second-to-the-last time I have to pack my bag.